Odds and Ends

Posted on October 17, 2015 by mcohen15

There were so many amazing things to see in Barcelona and as Jeff said it’s a lot like Paris though the people are a lot nicer. Some things didn’t fit so well into a particular topic for a blog post so I’ve left them for one final collage of the city.

This mural by Picasso is in the cathedral square. It depicts a festival in Barcelona where people build human towers. Picasso refused to come to Spain during the reign of Franco so he sent the drawing to a friend who then executed it.

Barcelona used to be called a city with its back to the sea. That is because it was always an industrialized port which is still is. This was true until 1992 when the Olympics created beaches and a beautiful waterfront. There is only one mega hotel which looks rather funny compared to other beach locations. It is in the shape of a sail. Don't hold out too much hope the skyline will stay like this. — Barcelona used to be called a city with its back to the sea. That is because it was always an industrialized port which is still is. This was true until 1992 when the Olympics created beaches and a beautiful waterfront. There is only one mega hotel which looks rather funny compared to other beach locations. It is in the shape of a sail. Don’t hold out too much hope the skyline will stay like this.

There is quite a bit of sculpture along the waterfront probably also left from the Olympics.

Rebecca Horn, “The Wounded Shooting Star”, 1992. Commissioned for the Olympics it is dedicated to the rebirth of Barceloneta, the run down fishing district that got new housing (from Olympic Village) and an upgrade.

Ball players — Juan Munoz, “A Room Where it Always Rains” 1992, five bronze figures imprisoned in a cage

This very quiet square has been the scene of a number of movies. The significance of the pock marks on the building are a reminder of the horrific Spanish Civil War that resulted in the destruction of Guernica and many believe helped lead to World War II. — This very quiet square has been featured in a number of movies. The significance of the pock marks on the building are a reminder of the horrific Spanish Civil War that resulted in the destruction of Guernica and many believe helped lead to World War II.

An example of Modernisme in a functional gate. Note the Art Nouveau style typeface.

This city is a feast for the eyes everywhere you look.

Barcelona is home to many breeds of dogs but probably more bull dogs than any other. This gigantic confection is now resident in a fantasy of a coffee shop but used to live in a restaurant in Girona that was voted the best restaurant in Europe in 2013, now closed. — Barcelona is home to many breeds of dogs but probably more bull dogs than any other. This gigantic confection of one is now resident in a fantasy of a coffee shop but used to live in a restaurant in Girona that was voted the best restaurant in Europe in 2013, now closed.

Stained glass workshop where those working on various Gaudi restoration projects have worked.

Our final mean at 4 Cats, the restaurant that gave Pablo Picasso his first art exhibit.

Museums of Barcelona

Posted on October 17, 2015 by mcohen15

The Picasso Museum contains a large collection of the artist’s own works donated by him because of the fondness he felt for the city where he lived and studied as a young man. The museum itself is a combination of five palaces in the Born neighborhood. We were not permitted to take photographs in the museum at all though I did manage to take some of the interior of the building. I’m sharing a few highlights that stood out to me.

The Palau Nacional that sits on the hill called Montjuic was the built for the Universal Exposition of 1929. Today it houses the Museu Nacioal d’Art de Catalunya. The art spans 1000 years of art and has probably the world’s greatest display of Romanesque art in the world. There are also works on permanent loan from the Thyssen Bornemisza Collection in Madrid and an extensive collection of contemporary art from Catalunya. From there we walked to the Jean Miro Foundation. I’ve never been a big fan of Miro but there is an amazing work by Alexander Calder and the setting is quite nice. Photographs could not be taken inside the museum, only works outdoors and the Calder image comes from the internet.

Last museum on our list was the Museum of Contemporary Art, housed in a Richard Meier building (same architect as the Getty Museum in Los Angeles). The exhibit we saw was entitled “Desires and Necessities” with all the work we saw there was related to the idea of what space is and how space and ordinary objects can be exhibits themselves. The exhibit included many recent acquisitions to the museum’s collection and it was wonderful to see the integration of a global collection of works.

Interior courtyard of the Picasso Museum

Picasso, "Painting of an Old Man", 1895, painted when the artist was 14 years old. — Picasso, “Painting of an Old Man”, 1895, painted when the artist was 14 years old.

Picasso, Pastel of the artist's mother painted at age 15. A good portion of the collection is his early works which one almost never gets to see. Remarkable to consider his skill at such a young age. — Picasso, Pastel of the artist’s mother painted at age 15. A good portion of the collection is his early works which one almost never gets to see. Remarkable to consider his skill at such a young age.

Picasso, "Margot", 1901. The room that contained this and the next painting were the most interesting as these were painted after his first trip to Paris when he met Toulouse Lautrec and Cezanne — Picasso, “Margot”, 1901. The room that contained this and the next painting were the most interesting as these were painted after his first trip to Paris when he met Toulouse Lautrec and Cezanne

An entire two rooms were dedicated to Picasso's interpretation of Velasquez' "Las Meninas". It had seen some of these illustrated but it was great to go back and forth. If you are just finished the Baroque in my class you are familiar with this amazing work. Now you can see how another artist interprets it. — An entire two rooms were dedicated to Picasso’s interpretation of Velasquez’ “Las Meninas”. It had seen some of these illustrated but it was great to go back and forth. If you are just finished the Baroque in my class you are familiar with this amazing work. Now you can see how another artist interprets it.

Here is the Infanta. Picasso makes her look like a birthday cake. It seems like an apt interpretation. This whole series was completed in 1957.

Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya — Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya

View from the museum which includes Sagrada Familia off to the right

The museum has the greatest collection of Romanesque art in the world. This is one of a number of 12th century frescoes from San Climent de Taull, a mountain church in the Pyrenees where they were in danger of deteriorating completely or being sold to private collectors or museums abroad. — The museum has the greatest collection of Romanesque art in the world. This is one of a number of 12th century frescoes from San Climent de Taull and Le Seu d’Urgell, mountain churches in the Pyrenees where they were in danger of deteriorating completely or being sold to private collectors or museums abroad.

The museum wanted to preserve them in Catalonia as part of their heritage and so painstakingly removed them from the walls and installed them in a display that mimics the church they came from.

Here is one particularly beautiful niche or apse

This image of Jesus as the Pantokrator is in your textbook if you are in the ancient art history class.

This is the back of the display niche for the frescoes. I almost like the back as much as the front side.

In the same room as the Pantokrater is a painting by Antonin Tapies — In the same room as the “Christ in Majesty” is a painting by Antoni Tapies “Matter Metal”, 1993

Antoni Tapies, a native son of Barcelona is shown in this photograph with other artists in front of the "Christ in Majesty" when it was installed — Antoni Tapies, a native son of Barcelona is shown in this photograph with other artists in front of the “Christ in Majesty” when it was installed

Other works in the same section of the museum are these wooden sculptures of Mary from the 12th century. I am always amazed when wood survives this long.

This grouping of figures is so well displayed it makes for a dramatic scene even though it's totally out of context in the museum. Notice how abstract work is from this time period. — This grouping of figures is so well displayed it makes for a dramatic scene even though it’s totally out of context in the museum. Notice how abstract work is from this time period.

This one is also in the same textbook. I am always pleasantly surprised to find something we are learning about that I had no idea was there. This is the "Batlo Crucifix" from the 12th century. — This one is also in the same textbook. I am always pleasantly surprised to find something we are learning about that I had no idea was there. This is the “Batlo Crucifix” from the 12th century.

This John the Baptist has been studied with sophisticated spectrometry to determine what the paint pigments are and created a simulation of the bright colors it would have been in the 12th century.

In another part of the museum we saw Renaissance and Baroque works including this fresco set by Caracci, 1560 that obviously had also been removed from it's original location. — In another part of the museum we saw Renaissance and Baroque works including this fresco set by Caracci, 1560 that obviously had also been removed from it’s original location.

Large altarpiece doors (front) by Pere Nunyes, 1526. Not an artist I am familiar with but impressed with the scale and in the next slide is the back.

After our visit to the Dali Museum I'm seeing surrealism everywhere- standing on top of floating baby heads...Francisco Zurbaran, a Spanish Baroque painter. "Immaculate Conception", 1632 — After our visit to the Dali Museum I’m seeing surrealism everywhere- standing on top of floating baby heads…Francisco Zurbaran, a Spanish Baroque painter. “Immaculate Conception”, 1632

Lucas Cranach, "St George and the Dragon" of course the mascot of Barcelona, 1514 — Lucas Cranach, “St George and the Dragon” of course the mascot of Barcelona, 1514

How fitting to come back to the Dutch Baroque a few days before departing Barcelona back to Amsterdam. This landscape was painted 1660

The museum has a huge performance space which was interesting to see since we'd seen the Palau Musica earlier in the day. It was quite a contrast. — The museum has a huge performance space which was interesting to see since we’d seen the Palau Musica earlier in the day. It was quite a contrast.

View of the National Museum from the Miro Foundation

Miro Foundation, started in 1975 by Miro himself to showcase his work and to exhibit the works of artists he admired and influenced him.

Alexander Calder's "Mercury Fountain" which is flowing mercury was created at the same time that Picasso's Guernica was (1937) and in this case to acknowledge and protest the mercury mine at Almaden where slaves and prisoners were put to work and who died from mercury poisoning. It's enclosed on all sides in glass. — Alexander Calder’s “Mercury Fountain” which is flowing mercury was created at the same time that Picasso’s Guernica was (1937) and in this case to acknowledge and protest the mercury mine at Almaden where slaves and prisoners were put to work and who died from mercury poisoning. It’s enclosed on all sides in glass.

This and the following two whimsical works by Miro were the only ones I photographed. This is the mother.

The interior space is typical for this architect and his hallmark color is white. This comfortable spot was a great place to relax for a little while on our last day in Barcelona. — The interior space of the Museum of Contemporary Art is typical for this architect and his hallmark color is white. This comfortable spot was a great place to relax for a little while on our last day in Barcelona.

High above the entrance hall was a three part work by Antoni Tapies who lived his life in Barcelona. We did not get to the Tapies Foundation where the Micro Museum was featured (if you remember from the museum in Ghent). The title for this piece is "Sudden Awakening" and this is part 1 — High above the entrance hall was a three part work by Antoni Tapies who lived his life in Barcelona. We did not get to the Tapies Foundation where the Micro Museum was featured (if you remember from the museum in Ghent). The title for this piece is “Sudden Awakening” and this is part 1

Tapies, Sudden Awakening Part 3. Sorry I could not get far enough away to not have the railing but you get the idea.

I was very happy to see the work of Richard Hamilton. One doesn't see a lot of this important artist's work. If you are in the Modern Art class you will find an example of his work in Pop Art where he is often classified. In the 1960s, Hamilton was the central focus of an exhibit entities "Growth and Form" where artists explored the concept of the exhibit space as a work of art itself and that nature itself had an aesthetic of its own. It was particularly great to see this after seeing so much of Gaudi's interest in natural forms. — I was very happy to see the work of Richard Hamilton. One doesn’t see a lot of this important artist’s work. If you are in the Modern Art class you will find an example of his work in Pop Art where he is often classified. This work is from 195. It was particularly great to see this after seeing so much of Gaudi’s interest in natural forms.

In the 1960s, Hamilton was the central focus of an exhibit entities “Growth and Form” where artists explored the concept of the exhibit space as a work of art itself and that nature itself had an aesthetic of its own.

Marcel Duchamp figures prominently in thinking about what came to be called installations and conceptual art.

Mireia Sallares, "Literature on the Landing", 2014 is the result of what is known as an intervention in an apartment building where tenants had complained about bad treatment by the landlord and and were evicted from their apartments where they had lived for many years. The vacant apartments were then occupied by various supporters and artists. The publicity about the intervention helped the court case against the landlord and the tenants were victorious. — Mireia Sallares, “Literature on the Landing”, 2014 is the result of what is known as an intervention in an apartment building in Barcelona where tenants had complained about bad treatment by the landlord and and were evicted from their apartments where they had lived for many years. The vacant apartments were then occupied by various supporters and artists. The publicity about the intervention helped the court case against the landlord and the tenants were victorious.

A video about Volkswagen that talks about their factory being a "symbol for transparency and authenticity". The work includes text added by the artist, Octavi Comeron and titled "Transparent Factory", 2006. How ironic given to current issues with Volkswagen. — A video about Volkswagen that talks about their factory being a “symbol for transparency and authenticity”. The work includes text added by the artist, Octavi Comeron from Spain titled the work “Transparent Factory”, 2006. How ironic given to current issues with Volkswagen. Note that Barcelona has a large car manufacturing sector as well.

John Baldessari, "Dwarf and Rhinoceros With Story Called Lamb", 1989/2013, — John Baldessari, “Dwarf and Rhinoceros With Story Called Lamb”, 1989/2013, from this American artist who abandoned painting for more conceptual work. The dwarf is particularly interesting in this work as Francisco Goya was an influence on Baldessari and Goya’s series “Disasters of War” includes this image often. In this case an American artist paying homage to a Spanish artist of the 18th century.

Oyvind Fahlstrom, "Sitting Blocks", 1966, comic book images of Batman turned into cubist works and stools at the same time. — Oyvind Fahlstrom, “Sitting Blocks”, 1966, comic book images of Batman turned into cubist works and stools at the same time. Fahlstrom is from Brazil.

Entrance to the room featuring geographic locations

Francisco Ruiz, "Cairo Newstand", 2010, stacks of newspapers featuring propaganda related to the Arab Spring uprising. — Francisco Ruiz, “Cairo Newstand”, 2010, stacks of newspapers featuring propaganda related to the Arab Spring uprising. Ruiz is from Barcelona. Note: there were a number of video installations from north African artists (Egypt, Tunisia) but were not reproducible.

Daniel Ortiz and Xose Quiroga, 2013, monuments from around Barcelona of people honored in this way even though they were they played major roles in slavery. Ortiz and Quiroga are from Peru

Marcel Broodthaers, Atlas, 1975 (very small around 3″ tall). Broodthaers is from Belgium

Marcel Broodthaers (part of the Atlas installation). His graphic work has deliberate errors which are not known to the viewer. I was particularly drawn to this work as I like to see map silhouettes as objects of art in an isolated form.

This section of the exhibit had to do with visualizing spaces and uncommon images in them.

Of course, I recognized this immediately as we had just been in Jerusalem and had commented about how raw and vulnerable this seems to have massive gas pipes exposed on the outsides of buildings. This work is by an Israeli artist whose work I had seen at a museum in Jerusalem I formerly talked about last year called Museum on the Seam which happily looks like it is reopening. This artist is Sigalit Landay, titled "Angel" , 2014 — Of course, I recognized this immediately as we had just been in Jerusalem and had commented about how raw and vulnerable this seems to have massive gas pipes exposed on the outsides of buildings. This work is by an Israeli artist whose work I had seen at a museum in Jerusalem I formerly talked about last year called Museum on the Seam which happily looks like it is reopening. This artist is Sigalit Landay, titled “Angel” , 2014

Last work was from another exhibit but fit into this theme and something we had noticed about all the blocks in Bareclona. When turning from one street to another (except for alleys) there is this triangular space at either end of every block that allows for a spaciousness for pedestrians and safety for vehicles turning. Title is "Via Laietana" 1988, Sergi Aguilar — Last work was from another exhibit but fit into this theme and something we had noticed about all the blocks in Bareclona. When turning from one street to another (except for alleys) there is this triangular space at either end of every block that allows for a spaciousness for pedestrians and safety for vehicles turning. Title is “Via Laietana” 1988, Sergi Aguilar

Before leaving the museum we saw a special photography exhibit installation of life in Barcelona in the 1960s by local photographer Xavier Miserach, a fitting end to an extraordinary week in this city.

Most of the photographs were arranged in an installation that we walked through as if we were on the streets of Barcelona in those days.

Almost Everything Guell

Posted on October 17, 2015October 17, 2015 by mcohen15

Park Guell at the north end of Barcelona high on a hill was Gaudi’s home until he started the project of Sagrada Familia. One of Gaudi’s biggest fans and best patron was Eusebi Guell. This wealthy entrepreneur who would have been richer than Bill Gates in todays dollars entrusted Gaudi with planning an estate for 60 residences on the model of British residential estates (hence the name Park Guell). The project had many roadblocks and was abandoned for the most part by 1914. Instead it was turned into a public park. Both Guell and Gaudi had homes there and Gaudi created an number of structures to enhance the aesthetics of the park. To start it all Guell commissioned Gaudi to remodel at palace for his family including 10 children close to the Rambla. This was Gaudi’s first great project. While Guell was not really involved in this project, another that did manage to be completed has been described as a petrified wave. It is Casa Mila (now called La Pedrera) built 1906-1912. Gaudi was a trained architect though when he graduated the dean said of him, “he’ll either be a madman or a genius.” This reclusive master left an indelible mark on the city of Barcelona and art movements to come after him.

Gaudi's home where he lived until moving to Sagrada Familia to work full time on that project. — Gaudi’s home where he lived until moving to Sagrada Familia to work full time on that project.

Grottos and viaducts form paths throughout the park.

Close to Gaudi's home you can see how much he valued the natural setting. — Close to Gaudi’s home you can see how much he valued the natural setting.

On the upper viaduct. Unfortunately it began to rain so we did not see the rest of the structures except from afar. We'll just have to return to see them close up. — On the upper viaduct. Unfortunately it began to rain so we did not see the rest of the structures except from afar. We’ll just have to return to see them close up.

The entry doors to Palau Guell, the palace of the patron of Gaudi, the most well known Moderniste architect. The palace was built in the late 1800s. — The entry doors to Palau Guell, the palace of Guell family. This was Gaudi’s first major project and you can already see the parabolas and natural elements appearing.

From inside the front gates it is possible to see out and for light to come inside but it's impossible for those outside to see in. — From inside the front gates it is possible to see out and for light to come inside but it’s impossible for those outside to see in.

Combining traditional materials and imagery with modern lines and natural imagery in the tile work.

Even the stables below the entry have beautiful forms though totally functional.

Tethering a horse to a unicorn instead of a mere brass ring.

Harmony between the tile patterned floor and the carpeting. It should be noted the Palau was closed from 1990-2011 for extensive renovation to restore the Palau to its former glory.

Ceilings throughout hand carved. Gaudi oversaw many artisans of great skill.

Elaborate bay windows and balconies with ingenious shutters and gargoyle drains

More parabola shapes for the window frames. — More parabola shapes for the window frames in the bedrooms with intricate brass fitttings.

Detail of the wood work and the marquetry (patterns made with small thin veneers of different colors of wood) in the wainscoting.

Large sconces either side of the Neo-Gothic style doors

Looking up to the three story ceiling of the main hall where guests were greeted and entertained. Notice the organ pipes.

The organ designed by Gaudi naturally... — The organ designed by Gaudi naturally…

One wall of the main hall had these huge doors that could be opened to reveal a small chapel where religious services could be conducted or entertainments could be had when the doors were closed.

Each of the four walls had paintings especially made to fit the curve of the wall.

Most rooms had this type of fireplace designed by Gaudi himself. Notice the parabola once again.

Stained glass window with Shakespearean characters in a pre-Raphaelite style and William Morris pattern (Arts and Crafts movement).

Stained glass everywhere even in hallways wherever possible. Notice the glass casings around the columns between the windows. That's the same thing we saw in the Palau Musica Catalunya. Must have been the style of the day. — Stained glass everywhere even in hallways wherever possible. Notice the glass casings around the columns between the windows. That’s the same thing we saw in the Palau Musica Catalunya. Must have been the style of the day.

In the piano room you can see how much light comes in and behind are windows in the wall instead of a solid wall.

The attic where laundry and other household activities could be accomplished. Notice the undulating walls and ceiling.

The hallmark chimney tops in Gaudi's fanciful style. — The hallmark chimney tops in Gaudi’s fanciful style.

This close up shows an added lizard. You saw them on the face of the Sagrada Familia as well.

This direction you can see the Agbar tower in the distance (not there in Gaudi's time) — This direction you can see the Agbar tower in the distance (not there in Gaudi’s time)

From this side the Sagrada Familia built after Palau Guell but of course Gaudi would have been aware of the sight lines. — From this side you can see both the brick structures as well as the tiled ones.

The central tower over the ceiling dome of the main hall.

Casa Mila (La Pedrera) from across the wide boulevard where it is located. It is an apartment building that was either loved or reviled at the time and eventually fell into disrepair. Now a UNESCO site it has been refurbished inside and out.

The front facade with balconies and undulating levels.

Entrance lobby, a combination of form, light, and color.

Back to Gaudi's philosophy of using natural forms, in this case a protozoa. — Back to Gaudi’s philosophy of using natural forms, in this case a protozoa.

The courtyard is open to the sky letting in natural light wherever possible. Each apartment goes all the way around one apartment per floor.

On the roof ventilation and chimneys are no ordinary objects, they became symbolic and animate forms. The entire roof is an undulating mass of forms.

Looking to other buildings around you can see how the mechanical objects project in a very haphazard and unappealing way that Gaudi never wanted in his projects.

And of course you can see Sagrada Familia from here.

Below the roof is the attic which gives you the inside of the undulation. It's like walking through a serpentine sculpture. Currently it houses a historical display of Gaudi projects. — Below the roof is the attic which gives you the inside of the undulation. It’s like walking through a serpentine sculpture. Currently it houses a historical display of Gaudi projects.

There is one apartment that can be visited and it has been restored to the way it would have looked at the turn of the 20th century. This bedroom window shows the inside of the iron balcony.

Many craftspeople were involved in this project but Gaudi oversaw much of the overall aesthetic.

Windows on the inside bring added light in and you can see across to the rest of the apartment.

Gaudi from the end

Posted on October 15, 2015 by mcohen15

It’s hard to know where to start with Antoni Gaudi and his importance to Barcelona. the next several blog posts will be devoted to him and his work. Just a little background. Antoni Gaudi lived 1852-1926. He was one of the first “organic” architects and is often referred to as a Modernist though he rejected that label (also associated with Art Nouveau). His patrons were the church and the Barcelona elite. He saw architecture as an art form and gave his attention to every detail of his projects from materials selected to the visual affects of the completed structures. He was fascinated with and studied nature and geometry from an early age. I’m going to start with his last project, the Sagrada Familia cathedral which he started on in 1884 and was unfinished at his death. It is a work still very much a construction zone as you will see. Its expected completion date is 2026.

We were fortunate to see an exhibit explaining Gaudi's philosophy so I'm going to intersperse these models and explanations as we look at the exterior and interior of Sagrada Familia. — We were fortunate to see an exhibit explaining Gaudi’s philosophy so I’m going to intersperse these models and explanations as we look at the exterior and interior of Sagrada Familia.

Sagrada Familia was started in 1883 and after a year the project was turned over to Gaudi who was a deeply religious man. He moved into the cathedral and lived there for the next 14 years. He died unexpectedly and work on his masterpiece continues as you can see.

The darker stone that you see is the older portions of the building and the lighter colored stone is the newer portion.

The towers are quite unusual as is everything about this building.

About the pinnacles of the towers Gaudi said “Look at the top!.. This burst of mosaics is the first thing that sailors will see when approaching Barcelona; it will be a radiant welcome. It is true that Sagrada Familia can be seen from many parts of the city.

The base of a new tower that will be added to a make a total of 12 towers.

Serpents and lizards slide down the face of the side structures.

Notice the workers in red suits in the V between the two triangular shapes.

For the design of the capitals of the tops of the towers on the three facades Gaudi chose twinned polyhedrons, the result of studying crystals.

The sculptures were completed 1986-2000 by Josep Maria Subirachs, controversial for their abstract quality but most art historians think Gaudi would have approved. Some of the controversy may be because the artist is a confirmed atheist.

This is the entry point and the most competed part of the cathedral finished in 1930.

Inaugurated in 2010 the nave is a forest of fluted pillars supporting four galleries above the side aisles, while skylights let in natural light.

Gaudi tried new ways of contracting, first at Colonia Guell (industrial village) and finally here. He is using parabaloid forms in many cases.

Stained glass windows in warm colors on one side. Notice the lights at the joints where the branches come off the main columns.

Capitol of each column features an ellipsoid form that resembles the tree in the photo behind it. It gives the whole structure added strength.

About the new forms Gaudi was trying he said " the fact that they have not been applied before and that I am the first to do so has made me think a lot…I believe that, convinced as I am of the perfection they represent, it is my duty to apply them. — About the new forms Gaudi was trying he said ” the fact that they have not been applied before and that I am the first to do so has made me think a lot…I believe that, convinced as I am of the perfection they represent, it is my duty to apply them.

A magnificent work of art that will continue to evolve.

Models for some of the natural forms seen at Sagrada Familia

Modernisme

Posted on October 15, 2015October 15, 2015 by mcohen15

We’ve seen Roman, Medieval, and contemporary Barcelona. The movement that has had the biggest impact is known as Modernisme. Combining the historical past with new technologies at the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th century combined to make this a most interesting architectural movement. It is colorful, flamboyant, and honors natural and organic forms. It began in 1888 at the Universal Exposition and culminated around 1930. It parallels the artistic movements of Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts throughout Europe and the US. In the 19th century the city expanded to the north creating Eixample, a new neighborhood that allowed architects to experiment, hence came Modernisme. One of the best examples of this style is the Palau Musica de Catalunya. The architect Domenech i Montaner designed every single piece inside and outside of this amazing musical venue that is a UNESCO site and has a variety of 300 musical performances annually. It took only three years to fully complete which is unheard of but Montaner supervised every single thing and iron was used for the structure itself which made erecting the building more efficient.

The exterior corner of the Palau Musica de Catalunya. The building was completed in 1908 in the "old" part of Barcelona. — The exterior corner of the Palau Musica de Catalunya. The building was completed in 1908 in the “old” part of Barcelona. And of course, there is St. George slaying the dragon at the very top.

It's hard to get a true perspective on the exterior as it's crowded in among other buildings and until recently had a church right up against it's Western side that blocked the light. It was renovated in 2008 after the church was demolished. — It’s hard to get a true perspective on the exterior as it’s crowded in among other buildings and until recently had a church right up against it’s Western side that blocked the light. It was renovated in 2008 after the church was demolished.

You can see how this building is a combination of old and new (Modernisme).

The grand entry. One can imagine the elite of Barcelona parading up and down the stairs.

The upper foyer houses busts of many famous performers (all local) and the next slide is one of the only ones I recognized.

Close up of the mosaic columns in the front balcony of the hall.

From the upper balcony looking down. The hall seats about 2000 and is the only concert hall in Europe lit by natural light.

The hall seats 2000 people. All performances are on the stage and opera is performed in concert form, no scenery changes.

Ceiling detail all around the central window.

The corners of the hall are covered in mosaic with very large sculptures projecting into the space.

Floor to ceiling windows add additional light into the hall.

The organ was played for us. The acoustics are quite remarkable.

On both sides of the stage are figures with protruding heads and instruments in relief and mosaic bodies. There are nine female figures on each side.

Each figure is unique and depicts a different era or type of music.

To the left front of the stage is the original inspirational leader of Catalan music (Clave) who is responsible for creating this showcase. He represents the local music heritage.

On the right hand side is Beethoven, representing the international musical heritage which is also performed in this hall.

In the newer part of town (Eixample) is another example of Modernisme. It is a row of three building that occupy one block. They are by three different architects and the block is called "Illa de la Discordia" because of the range of styles. — In the newer part of town (Eixample) is another example of Modernisme. It is a row of three building that occupy one block. They are by three different architects and the block is called “Illa de la Discordia” because of the range of styles.

First is by the same architect as the Palau Musica, Montaner designed in 1902. You can see how the old and new mix together in this building.

Next is Casa Amattler, designed by Puig i Cadfalch in 1898. It has a stepped gable roof blending Moorish and Gothic windows with Modernisme.

The third building is Casa Batllo by Antoni Gaudi has the most unusual facade with its undulating natural forms. It is a renovation of a previously existing building and the renovation was done in 1906.

Here is a model showing the before and after renovation of the facade.

Notice the dragon form on the roof (remember St. George and the Dragon)... — Notice the dragon form on the roof (remember St. George and the Dragon)…

It takes a lot of imagination

Posted on October 14, 2015 by mcohen15

In Catalonia the Jewish quarter of a town or city is known as the Call (from the Hebrew word kahal, meaning community). In 1391 the Jewish population of Barcelona was eliminated either from a pogrom (massacre), fled if they could afford to, or were forcibly converted to Christianity. The Jewish quarter is right in the center of Barcelona and we had a fantastic guide for this part of the visit as there is so much we would not have seen otherwise. One needs an imagination to conjure a flourising community that disappeared over 600 years ago.

We are inside the area that would have been the Jewish quarter. The streets are the narrowest in the city, only wide enough for a cart and horse to fit. When a community is confined they make the most of the space they have. This is the entrance that would have had a gate (open during the day closed at night). This post requires an imagination (and a guide helps too).

Standing by the oldest building in Barcelona that was home to a very important scholar and rabbi named Rashba who was a student of Ramban (are you confused)?! Notice at the corner the bump for getting off and on your horse.

The oldest stone of this wall is from Roman times.

Stone above is from Middle Ages. Again if you have limited space you build up.

Across the alley from the oldest building you can see the crossroads of two main thoroughfares in the quarter. Look up and you'll see a niche. In the Middle Ages people were illiterate so instead of a street sign there would be a marker or statue to tell the location. — Across the alley from the oldest building you can see the crossroads of two main thoroughfares in the quarter. Look up and you’ll see a niche. In the Middle Ages people were illiterate so instead of a street sign there would be a marker or statue to tell the location.

A marker stone to identify one of the home, in this case Samuel from Sardinia. Since Barcelona was a commercial center Jewish merchants from throughout Europe passed through. They had a distinct advantage, a common language with other Jews so they sought them out whenever possible.

The groove marks the spot where there would have been a mezuzah (kind of amulet attached to the doorpost of every Jewish home). Of course during the time of the Inquisition this identification would have been quite dangerous.

There is a joke about Jewish people who have the synagogue they attend and the one they would never go to. Historians believe this is the location of one of many synagogues in the Jewish quarter at its height.

There is one synagogue discovered in the quarter, called the Sinagoga Major it was probably built as early as the 4th century CE. It was uncovered in 1987. — There is one synagogue discovered in the quarter, probably built as early as the 4th century CE. It was uncovered in 1987. The verification process was quite interesting since records were kept only about taxes and synagogues were not required to pay taxes. However, the tax collector’s route was recorded and indicated he passed it by. The building also is oriented east west instead of north south as the rest of the quarter is. Synagogues face Jerusalem, which is to the east.

Floor of the synagogue dating to Roman times also has dye vats used by a family that occupied the space after it was no longer a synagogue.

Another portion of the Roman floor sunken many feet below street level now.

A stained glass window delineating the women's section of the synagogue. There is a solid wall behind the window as another building was erected there after the synagogue was abandoned. Perhaps one day it will be excavated. — A stained glass window delineating the women’s section of the synagogue. There is a solid wall behind the window as another building was erected there after the synagogue was abandoned. Perhaps one day it will be excavated.

Just outside the Call there is a square that is now the city general assembly. If you look to the back you will see one wall that is angled, that was the site of another synagogue and this remaining wall faces East towards Jerusalem. — Just outside the Call there is a square that now has two important municipal government buildings. If you look to the back of this building you will see one wall that is angled, that was the site of another synagogue and this remaining wall faces East towards Jerusalem. You can see how it is oriented differently from the rest.

Leaving the Jewish quarter we once again make our way along the Roman road.

You can see remnants of a Roman aqueduct and a Medieval tower.

Once again the multiple building levels, Roman stone on the bottom, Medieval stone in the middle, and 20th century additions (pink) on either side. — Multiple building levels are quite apparent here, Roman stone on the bottom, Medieval stone in the middle, and 20th century additions (pink) on either side.

Compare this main cathedral of the city of Barcelona (begun 1298 under Jaume II). It was not finished until the early 20th century. Notice how ornate it is compared to the one in Girona- Barcelona was much richer. — Compare this main cathedral of the city of Barcelona (begun 1298). It was not finished until the early 20th century. Notice how ornate it is compared to the one in Girona. Barcelona was much richer and could afford a grander cathedral.

Entry doors of Barcelona Cathedral, ca. 1889.

George and the Dragon- dragons are a common theme in Barcelona. You'll see more of them when we look at Gaudi's work. One might thing George and the Dragon are the mascots of the city. — George and the Dragon- dragons are a common theme in Barcelona. You’ll see more of them when we look at Gaudi’s work. One might think George and the Dragon are the mascots of the city.

Around the corner (notice the Catalan independence flag) we get a big surprise. For those of you who are in the ancient art history classes the timing is perfect as we are talking about syncretism in class (adopting other people's imagery, etc). — Around the corner (notice the Catalan independence flag) we get a big surprise. For those of you who are in the ancient art history classes the timing is perfect as we are talking about syncretism in class (adopting other people’s imagery, etc).

At the end of that alley we entered a room and found the Temple of Augustus from Roman times, or at least what's left of it. It is very close to the cathedral- remember the discussion about one group asserting power of the other by building on top of their sacred space? — At the end of that alley we entered a room and found the Temple of Augustus from Roman times, or at least what’s left of it. It is very close to the cathedral. Remember the discussion about one group asserting power of the other by building on top of their sacred space?

Not only did they build over the temple but it ended up being buried inside some apartments. Early etchings from the 19th century show people in their apartments with free floating column portions in the living room.

The Jews were under the protection of Jaume I, as they were useful to him for business, medical attention, etc. and of course, he charged them the highest taxes which they were almost happy to pay to buy the king's protection. This is the king's palace and the courtyard here was the site of a famous disputation between Nachmanides (Ramban from Girona) and a Christian cleric. Ramban realized if he "won" the debate it could go very badly for the Jewish community so he argued well enough so that the Jews assumed they had won and the Christians assumed they had won. Most believed the Ramban had won and as punishment he was banished from Spain. He settled in Palestine, never to return. — The Jews were under the protection of Jaume I, as they were useful to him for commerce, medical attention, etc. and of course, he charged them the highest taxes which they were almost happy to pay to buy the king’s protection. This is the king’s palace and the courtyard here was the site of a famous disputation between Nachmanides (Ramban from Girona) and a Christian cleric over Christianity’s main beliefs. Ramban realized if he “won” the debate it could go very badly for the Jewish community so he argued well enough so that the Jews assumed they had won and the Christians assumed they had won. Regardless, as punishment Ramban was banished from Spain. He settled in Palestine, never to return.

Tower in the king's palace so he could see the sea and who he might be able to tax for landing a ship on his shore. — Tower in the king’s palace so he could see the sea and who he might be able to tax for landing a ship on his shore.

See the door up high that doesn't have any access to it? That is a door in the cathedral wall that had a bridge to the king's palace so he could pass without having to come in contact with any of his subjects. — See the door up high that doesn’t have any access to it? That is a door in the cathedral wall that had a bridge to the king’s palace so he could pass without having to come in contact with any of his subjects.

At the base of one of the walls there is a stone with engraved Hebrew letters (turned on its side). This is a Jewish gravestone.

Another portion of a Jewish gravestone. Remember, the Jewish community of Barcelona vanished at the end of the 14th century. Many of these buildings were built 200 years later. These were repurposed stones that happened to be already the right shape and it's likely the builders did not even know what they were. — Another portion of a Jewish gravestone. Remember, the Jewish community of Barcelona vanished at the end of the 14th century. Many of these buildings were built at least 100 years later. These were repurposed stones that happened to be already the right shape and it’s likely the builders did not even know what they were.

Here is one more higher up on the wall. The ironic thing about this one is it's just down the street from the Inquisition torture chambers. — Here is one more higher up on the wall. The ironic thing about this one is it’s just down the street from the Inquisition torture chambers. The writing is three rows below the wire going horizontally from the lamp in the center.

The insignia for the Inquisition. Notice the pig at the bottom. Spaniards are quite obsessed with pork and this is and was an issue for observant Jews who do not eat pork. This became a life or death issue in those days. — The insignia for the Inquisition. Notice the pig at the bottom. Spaniards are quite obsessed with pork and this was and is an issue for observant Jews who do not eat pork. This became a life or death issue in those days.

The facade on this 18th century building is quite lovely but check out the street sign- Banys Noy Street (New Bath Street). This brought us to the end of our tour and walked on this street full of tourist shops some of which sold Jewish souvenirs along with chic clothing, shoes, and edible treats because they know who comes to this neighborhood. We arrived at one store and our guide took us inside. — The facade on this 18th century building is quite lovely but check out the street sign- Banys Noy Street (New Bath Street). This brought us to the end of our tour and we walked on this street full of tourist shops some of which sold Jewish souvenirs along with chic clothing, shoes, and edible treats because they know who comes to this neighborhood. We arrived at one store and our guide took us inside.

This is what we found at the back of the store- it's the Mikveh (ritual bath). When the store wanted to expand they broke through an existing wall and found this. They needed to bring in the antiquities authorities who excavated the entire area and determined this was where the Jewish community in the 14th century had their Mikveh. If you remember, the Black Plague killed 60% of the population but very few of them were Jews. So the Jews were blamed for the plague. It was simple hygiene that saved the Jews and here is where they practiced it. It's now part of a knick knack store and the original Jewish community is gone. But our guide for this tour is Jewish and everyone on our tour (6 adults and my grandson) are Jewish, and Barcelona has a small but vibrant Jewish community again. — This is what we found at the back of the store- it’s the Mikveh (ritual bath). When the store wanted to expand they broke through an existing wall and found this. They needed to bring in the antiquities authorities who excavated the entire area and determined this was where the Jewish community in the 14th century had their Mikveh. If you remember, the Black Plague killed 60% of the population but very few of them were Jews. So the Jews were blamed for the plague. It was simple hygiene that saved the Jews from the plague but not from the Inquisition. Here is where they practiced their ritual hygiene. It’s now part of a knick knack store and the original Jewish community is gone. But our guide for this tour is Jewish and everyone on our tour (6 adults and my grandson) are Jewish, and Barcelona has a small but vibrant Jewish community again.

Dali Needed an Editor

Posted on October 14, 2015 by mcohen15

After Girona we traveled to Figueres, a city associated with Salvador Dali, and not much else. The Theatre-Museu Dali (Theatre Museum Dali) is the town’s biggest and probably only attraction. Dali was born in Figueres in 1904 and lived there until 1922 when he moved to Madrid for art school from which he was expelled four times but not before meeting Federico Garcia Lorca and Luis Bunuel who would have major influences on him and turning him in the direction of surrealism.

In 1929 he met the love of his life, Gala, from whom he was inseparable until her death in 1982. She was his muse and appears either obviously or in disguise in many of his works. They moved to Paris during the Spanish Civil War and to the US during World War II. In the US Dali became famous and eventually moved back to Spain and died in the Dali Theatre Museum in 1989.

The Teatre-Museu Dali is a neoclassical building constructed in 1848 and an Italian style theatre. It was converted to the Dali Museum in 1974. The entire structure of the museum and the contents was designed by Dali himself and you can imagine he had a pretty good time doing it. However, being an ego maniac he did almost no editing so there are some great works to be seen and quite a bit that should not be seen (in my opinion). Because Dali’s work is impossible to explain I’m going to share what we saw with little or no explanation.

The church right next door to the museum where Dali was baptized.

The Cadillac is from the 1940s and never driven. There is an umbrella at the top of the boat behind the car that slowly opens and it rains inside the car.

Next room is a large glass dome topped hall with a painting that at first looks like a nude painting from the back of Gala but when one takes a photo with a smartphone the pixels form the face of Abraham Lincoln. Dali was definitely before his time.

7c3a8c_c9e2b94ee9114c0c98671be7aaeda3b1 — The large painting tapestry was painted in 1947 so must have been completed in the US. It reminds me of some of the imagery Dali produced for Walt Disney that helped secure his fame and fortune of course.

To get the full affect one must climb on to the camel and look through a special glass.

Michelangelo's Moses (in plaster) — Michelangelo’s Moses (in plaster)

I think this was an original Bouguereau.

Another of these can be seen at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. That's a real loaf of bread and the ink set is of a famous work by Francois Millet "The Angelus". It appears many times in Dali's work — Another of these can be seen at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. That’s a real loaf of bread and the ink set is of a famous work by Francois Millet “The Angelus”. It appears many times in Dali’s work

A bust of the Baroque painter Velasquez in a room with Dali's take off on "Las Meninas" — A bust of the Baroque painter Velasquez in a room with Dali’s take off on “Las Meninas”. A tiny reproduction of the painting is across the artist’s forehead.

One version of the Infanta from “Las Meninas”

A second version of the infanta from "Las Meninas" — A second version of the infanta from “Las Meninas”

Dali's full blown reinterpretation of "Las Meninas" — Dali’s full blown reinterpretation of “Las Meninas”

From upstairs you can see the boat very clearly. The blue drops are condoms. — From upstairs you can see the boat very clearly. The column is made from truck tires and the blue drops are condoms.

Girona

Posted on October 13, 2015October 13, 2015 by mcohen15

Girona is a city about an hour and a half outside of Barcelona. The city was founded by the Romans and one can also see Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque structures in a contained historic district. It has one of the best preserved Jewish quarters in Europe.

The city of Girona is between four rivers though two of them were widened to prevent flooding. It's reminiscent of Florence with it's bridges. — The city of Girona is between four rivers though two of them were widened to prevent flooding. It’s reminiscent of Florence with it’s bridges.

There were originally four rivers but to control flooding two of them were widened so that it drained the other two. The bridge you see looks old but was actually built in the 1970s.

St. Feliu Church at the entrance to the historic district shows the reconstruction that was necessary because Girona was the crossroads of conflict because of it's geographical proximity to France, the Mediterranean coast, and other parts of Spain. Conflict came from France, Visigoths, Moors, and other Spanish rulers. — St. Feliu Church at the entrance to the historic district shows the reconstruction that was necessary because Girona was the crossroads of conflict because of it’s geographical proximity to France, the Mediterranean coast, and other parts of Spain. Conflict came from France, Visigoths, Moors, and other Spanish rulers.

You can see the tower of St. Feliu over modern apartment buildings and a reconstructed wall below.

Facade of St. Feliu which shows elements of Baroque style but quite simplified compared to other churches of the time.

Remnants of a Roman wall seen in the stones of a more contemporary wall, with contemporary being something like 17th century.

Going through a Roman arch into the heart of the historic center.

Stone on the side walls show the remnants of the Roman origins. These are called ashlars and are similar to those found at the Western Wall in Jerusalem.

It may be hard to imagine but this is the main Roman road built to link the parts of the empire. It's amazing to think that roads built by the ancient Romans are still used by us today. — It may be hard to imagine but this is the main Roman road built to link the parts of the empire. It’s amazing to think that roads built by the ancient Romans are still used by us today.

A Romanesque church that is now a film museum. You can see that this type of structure is not as tall or as ornate as the later Gothic structures.

Entrance to the Romanesque church (film museum). You can see why it is called Romanesque as it uses classical elements of arch and column but is not very embellished.

Octagonal buildings are also a hallmark of Romanesque architecture. This one marked the town cemetery and notice it's right in the center of town (more on this later). — Octagonal buildings are also a hallmark of Romanesque architecture. This one marked the town cemetery and notice it’s right in the center of town (more on this later).

Since must of the historic center has been reconstructed with materials from various eras notice the lintel of this window "repurposed" from the hospital that says in Latin "Be ready" since going to the hospital in the 12th century usually meant you went right across the street to the cemetery when you left. — Since must of the historic center has been reconstructed with materials from various eras notice the lintel of this window “repurposed” from the hospital that says in Latin “Be ready” since going to the hospital in the 12th century usually meant you went right across the street to the cemetery when you left.

Another octagonal structure identifies a Romanesque building.

The lioness is the symbol for the city of Girona. If you get up to the lioness and kiss her bum you will for sure return to Girona.

The cathedral has the distinction of having the largest vault of any in Europe. To be honest if the guide hadn't told us that I would not have noticed. — The cathedral has the distinction of having the largest vault of any in Europe. To be honest if the guide hadn’t told us that I would not have noticed.

Compared to other Gothic structures this one is very unadorned. One thing to consider is that a city like Girona was not as well off financially as other cities so could not spend as much on construction of their cathedral.

Plaza in front of the cathedral. Below is the Jewish quarter.

Entering the Jewish quarter. Girona was home of one of the most important rabbis in Jewish history- Nachmanides also known as Ramban (not to be confused with Rambam/Maimonides). He was responsible for starting the Kabbalistic tradition.

One street of the Jewish quarter which was separated from the rest of the city. This narrow alley and the one in the next photo were only reopened in the 1970s. They were walled off before then.

This is the second alley. The community was protected by the king because the Jewish community provided financial assistance to the king. The church on the other hand was not so happy with the Jewish community and the Inquisition destroyed the community in the late 15th century.

This graffiti on the back wall of the Jewish museum. Just to remind us that the more things change the more they stay the same.

One of the synagogues and a few houses of the Jewish quarter have been converted to a very nice museum documenting the Jewish community of Girona.

gir4 — The museum is on multiple levels with many artifacts and information documenting the height of Jewish society in this region of Spain.

The Mikveh (ritual bath) discovered recently in the basement of the synagogue.

Some water seeping into the mikveh confirmed what it was. So getting back to the cemetery from earlier, in 1391 the Black Plague killed 60% of the population of Spain. Most of the deaths were among Christians. The Jews were relatively unscathed. Why- simple, hygiene. Jews go to the ritual bath on a regular basis and wash their hands before and after eating. Jews also bury their dead outside of the city. The cemetery building at the beginning of this post was Christian and in the center of town. Of course, since the Jews were not affected by the Plague they must have caused it and so there was a pogrom against them. Many Jews died, those who had the means left Spain and others converted to Christianity though they continued to be Jews in secret.

A seven branched menorah from the 13th century similar to the one you see on the Arch of Titus in Rome if you are in the ancient art history class.

Oil menorahs of many types all from about the 16th to 18th centuries.

A scroll for Purim (a holiday commemorating the Jews of Persia being liberated). Interestingly the two columns right in the middle are about the evil Haman telling the king about the foreigners in their midst. This scroll called a megillah is from the 18th century.

A cornerstone from the synagogue (13th century) that helps to prove that the building was actually used by the community for a worship space.

A torah scroll (this one borrowed from a Jewish community elsewhere in Spain. Remember the nano bible the size of a grain of sugar. That contains everything on this gigantic scroll.

Tombstones from the Girona Jewish cemetery. More on what happens to gravestones in a future blog posting.

Look Up

Posted on October 12, 2015 by mcohen15

Barcelona is a city where you would miss quite a bit if you just looked straight ahead or at your feet. The city is known for its historic as well as modernistic architecture and there are surprises around every corner.

I don't know who the sculpture is supposed to be (reminds me of Cervantes) or what the building is but the combination of the modern and the old gives you and idea of how intermixed the styles are. — I don’t know who the sculpture is supposed to be (reminds me of Cervantes) or what the building is but the combination of the modern and the old gives you and idea of how intermixed the styles are.

The upper floors of the Musical Center of Catalunya,

Not permitted to take photos in the Picasso Museum but could not resist this spiral staircase.

This side wall of the modernized portion of the Music Hall almost appears to be etched into the brick.

Just a brief idea of what the column capitals look like on the music all building.

Believe it or not this is a hotel and those elements protruding are supposed to be eyes and they are permanent.

Contrast between new and old near the Olympic (1992) facilities.

"Gambrinus", by Javier Mariscal greets visitors coming to the waterfront — “Gambrinus”, by Javier Mariscal greets visitors coming to the waterfront

Roy Lichtenstein, "The Head of Barcelona", 1991 — Roy Lichtenstein, “The Head of Barcelona”, 1991

Frank Gehry Goldfish designed and erected for the 1992 Olympics

A wire sculpture in a small plaza, could not find out who the artist is.

A more traditional tile facade along Las Ramblas

Another interesting facade on Las Ramblas, notice the dragon protruding from the end.

The Agbar Tower can be seen from many places in the city. It is not a sculpture, rather an office building and the exterior is meant to call water to mind, rippling and moving. We keep missing it at night when it is all lit up and is supposed to look like a kaleidoscope. It is not in the historical center of the city rather in a technology hub. — The Agbar Tower can be seen from many places in the city, a gateway to the technology section of the city. It is not a sculpture, rather an office building and the exterior is meant to call water to mind, rippling and moving. We keep missing it at night when it is all lit up and is supposed to look like a kaleidoscope. We passed it on our way out of town to Girona.

It’s Been Awhile

Posted on October 11, 2015 by mcohen15

It’s been awhile since we’ve been in a new place where we have never been and it always strikes me how different a place looks than you imagined when you looked at pictures. It’s kind of a funny thing since you will likely imagine Barcelona after reading this blog that is very different from what it will actually look like when you come here, which I hope you all will (if you haven’t been here already). Before coming many people told us Barcelona was their favorite city and my biggest concern was the “this is the best restaurant” or “that was the best movie/book I ever saw/read” and it’s always a disappointment. So far no disappointments here. Barcelona gets many visitors/tourists/travels (whatever you want to call it) and I have confirmed that I will try never to come to Europe in the middle of the summer. I think one of the things that makes Barcelona so easy going is of course how nice everyone is but also how well they have managed the infrastructure of the downtown to accommodate visitors. There are information stations everywhere, the signage is better than any city I’ve ever seen so you almost never get lost and it’s great for walking, something we love to do. Here are a few preliminary views.