It’s no accident that the white cliffs of Dover are on the other side of the English Channel from Etretat. You will see that these cliffs were the subject of the Impressionists. The crescent shaped bay with fairly calm water once made it a thriving fishing village and ultimately a popular seaside resort (again only a train ride away from Paris) in the 19th century. For the Impressionists having subject matter for Plein Air painting (outside on the site) was one thing that drew them, the amazing light which we understand living on the coast as we do, but also the Impressionists were interested in depicting leisure time. This is the perfect setting for that. Now there is no longer a port except for rental boats so the streets are lined with restaurants, hotels, and knick knack shops but all that does not detract from the natural beauty.
Not damaged in World War II there are some 18th and 19th century buildings intermixed with the more contemporary architecture
Central area of Etretat
Photo of the seashore before the war and how the Germans destroyed the seaside buildings to set up their tank barricades and large guns
German bunker left from World War II
Most of the fishing boats have been saved as thatch covered boat rental huts
Monet, “Fishing Boats at Etretat”, 1873
Looking south
Monet, “Etretat”, 1883
Monet, “Cliff of Aval”, 1885
Sun and sea combine to create amazing light
Monet, “Etretat, Cliff of Aval”, 1885
View to the north from top of the cliffs.
View to the north from path along top of cliffs
Monet, “La Manneporte”, 1883
Tide can get low enough for people to walk through the arch on intensely pebbled beach. Wasn’t that way when we were there and there are also signs asking people not to take pebbles from the beach.
These have all been wonderful, Mina! I can’t tell you how much I’ve enjoyed these emails. BTW, Karen is with Jason for the week, with Paula yesterday…we had her Monday, I have her today and tomorrow, as well. The coast his barely holding together without you, but we all do our best. Enjoy, enjoy the rest of your magnificent journey…and thank you again for sharing these details. — Linda
These have all been wonderful, Mina! I can’t tell you how much I’ve enjoyed these emails. BTW, Karen is with Jason for the week, with Paula yesterday…we had her Monday, I have her today and tomorrow, as well. The coast his barely holding together without you, but we all do our best. Enjoy, enjoy the rest of your magnificent journey…and thank you again for sharing these details. — Linda