We are no longer in France but due to several intensive travel days I got behind so I’ll be sharing France with you a few days longer. Honfleur is best known as a mecca for the Impressionist painters in the late 19th century because of it’s expansive landscape, the coastal light and the easy travel by train from Paris. Even today Parisians flock to Normandy to “get away.” For some reason this picturesque town was spared destruction during World War II and it is quintessentially cute though not in a bad way. In fact it seems to be spared the chain stores, at least in the compact downtown (compact in that to drive the streets you have to put both mirrors in and someone has to direct walking ahead of the car).
Honfleur is still a port thought mostly it appears to be large sailboats and tour boats, with a few fishing boats mixed in. Le Havre, the large port to the north (and quite industrial) has long eclipsed Honfleur. This is where the Seine River meets the English Channel. William the Conquerer received supplied from Honfleur once he had invaded England and Samuel de Champlain sailed from here in 1608 to North America, where he explored the St. Lawrence River and founded Quebec City. But of everything, artists like Monet might be said to have launched modernism from here.
“Impression Sunrise”, Claude Monet, 1873
This is probably Monet’s most iconic painting and got its name as a derogatory response from a critic who said it was just an “impression”. Monet liked that idea and the movement was born! I did not know this painting was painted close to Le Havre.
The narrow alleys of Honfleur
“Rue de la Bavolle”, Monet, 1864
One of the wider streets leading to the Eugene Boudin Museum. Didn’t think there was such a thing as a museum not worth visiting but this was one. Too bad for a place that inspired so many.
In the center of town is the clock and bell tower of St. Catherine’s Church. It was built detached from the church so as not to put much stress on the building and to minimize fire danger.
“Bell Tower of St. Catherines”, Monet
First built in 1466 and added to in 1497, looks like an upside down boat (makes sense with lots of boat builders and no cathedral architects around).
Interior of St. Catherines, lovely simple structure though the fluorescent chandeliers were a bit of a turn off.
Highest point around is a tiny chapel called Cote de Grace, built in the early 1600s.
Since the chapel is so small the church bells are outside. The bells still ring every 15 minutes.
The interior of the chapel is filled with plaques left by pilgrims seeking help.
Nautical theme inside the chapel.
Le Havre looking across the Seine from the Cote de Grace. Although it looks very different today, this is the port from which my mother sailed to Canada after the war as did my father (same boat), he returning from fighting in Israel for independence from Britain.
“Fishing Boats Leaving Le Havre”, Monet, 1874
“Pilots Jetty, Le Havre”, Camille Pissarro, 1903
The harbor in Honfleur is closed in on three sides.
The tall skinny buildings that now house hotels and restaurants were once fishermen’ houses and designed at a time when buildings were tied based on their width, not height.
“La Maria (The Harbor)”, Georges Seurat, 1886
The Lieutenancy marks the entrance to the harbor and was used Napoleon’s governor as his home.
“The Lieutenancy”, Monet, 1864
“The Lieutenancy Building at Honfleur, Normandy” Joseph Mallord William Turner, 1832
Poetry Without Words 